The Big Island
A week exploring Hawaii’s Big Island with my favorite person
Anthony and I flew into Kona and checked into the Royal Kona Hotel, which is basically built into the ocean. Not in a metaphorical way. The building is half on land, half on lava rock. The view from our room looked straight out over the water, and every night we fell asleep to waves.
First food rec is this little local shop, Kona Heaven Coffee, that had bagels, pastries, and breakfast-y stuff. I got an everything bagel with fresh avocado and coconut oil. It was a new combination for me that became a quick favorite.
We spent most of that day by the pool, reading, sunning, existing. Not a bad start. That night we walked to the Kona Luau (you can book ahead), and it was a great time with a beautiful setting, talented performers, and delicious food.
Two Words: Go. To. Taka.
If you like Asian food, go to Taka in Kona. It’s unassuming. But the food is so good, we ended up going twice. From the sushi to the edamame, everything was hitting all the right notes. If you’re like me and you research restaurants like it’s your job, just save yourself the spiral and go here at least once. Probably twice.
Clear Waters & Manta Rays
The next day we had breakfast at the hotel, then drove to Manini’owali Beach. Easy parking, short walk, and water that’s crystal clear. Not overly crowded either, which was a nice surprise. Bring a snorkel if you have one. And maybe an umbrella or some shade if you’re pale like me.
Later that evening, we did the Twilight Manta Ray Snorkel, which is probably in my top 3 things I’ve ever done on a trip. You get in the water at sunset, and then these massive manta rays just appear. They swoop up to feed and swirl right under you. It’s kind of terrifying and peaceful at the same time. If you watch the GoPro footage, all you’ll hear is me squealing into my snorkel.
Coffee Tour
Wednesday was our big coffee day. We checked out of the hotel and hit three different coffee tours:
- Mountain Thunder Coffee (super lush forest vibes + a lava tube walk)
- Heavenly Hawaiian (gorgeous views, good vibes, very hands-on roasting lesson)
- Hala Tree (my favorite, I think. It felt very personal, and the coffee was really freaking good)
If you’re into coffee or just want to learn more about the land and process, it’s worth making a day of it. The tours are close-ish to each other and break up the drive nicely. Cool plus – each coffee farm seems to have a resident cat.
That night, we checked into the craziest Airbnb. A secluded cabin in the rainforest near Volcanoes National Park. The kind of place where you can’t see another house or light. Just trees and chirping things. There was a screened porch, a hammock, and a hot tub that we got in while it rained. Yeah. That’s the vibe.
Lava Fields & Sea Turtles
We spent the next day chasing turtles (respectfully) at Punaluʻu’s black sand beach. The waves were too rough to snorkel, but we got to see them on the beach. After that, we hiked Napau Trail in Volcanoes National Park, completely alone, surrounded by lava rock and silence.
The rest of the day, we explored Volcanoes National Park. We did a quiet hike along Napau Trail, where we didn’t see another soul the whole time. If you want that eerie, Mars-like, lava field solitude… this is it. We ended the drive at Hōlei Sea Arch, where the sunset showed off just enough for a solid photo or two.
Volcanoes National Park From All Angles
The next morning was our helicopter ride with Paradise Helicopters. Open door, wind in the face, flying right over the volcanoes. Unreal. Our pilot almost had to cancel because of clouds, but he made the call to go, and it was so worth it. If you’re thinking about doing this, just do it. Skip something else if you have to.
After that, we drove to Carlsmith Beach Park for snorkeling and yep, more turtles. They swam with such calm power, and I loved every second of just floating nearby, watching.
Dinner that night was at Hilo Bay Cafe. Let me just say. Yes. The warm bread is enough to make me go back. The rest of the meal was just an amazing bonus.
Sunset at 13,000 Feet
Saturday, we took it easy in the morning. Slept in. Cuddled. Ate leftovers and soaked in the hot tub again. Then we packed up and drove toward Mauna Kea for sunset. It looked like a bad idea the whole way up. Rainy, gray, bleak. But then we got above the clouds and it was just… magical. Bring layers. The air is thin and cold, and it kinda kicks your ass, but it’s beautiful and strange and very worth it.
We passed the inspection at the visitor center (they check your car’s tires and 4WD capabilities), then drove the last stretch to the summit. There’s not much up there, just telescopes and rocks, but it feels like the edge of the world. I love being above the cloud line- it gives me butterflies in the best way. We lucked out with another great sunset that mimicked the tones of cotton candy. Another must-do, in my opinion.
Rainforests, Waterfalls, and Some Friendly Goats
Sunday, we left our rainforest Airbnb and started heading north. First stop: Onomea Bay + Hawai’i Tropical Botanical Garden. This place is heaven if you like plants and butterflies, and wandering. They sell coconut popsicles that are honestly reason enough to go.
Then Akaka Falls, which is a quick and easy loop trail. Later, we saw a goat farm off the side of the road and pulled in. It was exactly as chaotic and charming as you’d expect. We left smelling a little weird but smiling.
For lunch, hit Birria Boss in Honomu. Great tacos, an unassuming shop, and down the street, there’s a juice stand where we grabbed coconut drinks straight from the source.
Final Night on the Edge
We booked one last night at a Hipcamp near the coast, and this one might’ve topped them all. Canvas tent. Private deck. Wild geckos keeping watch. We caught a beautiful sunset over the Pacific and went to bed to the sound of wind and waves and whatever animal was making that low growling noise (we’re choosing to believe it was friendly).
In the morning, we woke up to a passing storm and a rainbow. Then made our way to Waipi’o Fruit Shack, which is a required stop in my book. Lemonade, hammocks, swings with a view, and snacks to hold you over for your drive back across the island.
We ended our trip at the Four Seasons (bougie finale), where we ate dinner and watched one last beach sunset before flying out. It felt full circle, somehow. The Big Island gave us lava, turtles, rain, sun, and bitchin sunsets. Not to mention, we ate insanely well the entire time.
If you’re planning a trip to the Big Island, my tips are pack for all seasons, bring reef-safe sunscreen, and go where I told you to for dinner.
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